Also, trigger warning - this is not a super uplifting post and contains descriptions of poor treatment of animals.
Last year, I was very resolute that I did not want to be a part of any animal cafe visiting experiences. I dislike zoos (though Australia does do them very well) and I don't want to see any animals in boxes that they don't belong in. This time round, for some reason, I was mildly interested in going to an animal cafe. I think Steve reporting the conditions of the cat cafe that the girls and he visited last year being tolerable. And the draw of wanting to see hedgehogs too. What we didn't do, was enough research.
We had a vague plan that we would take the girls to one, but when we were out in Asakusa being ninja and samurai, they really began to notice all the different options there. The asking to go increased. I guess part of me thought: "Let's get it done now and then we can cross it off the list." So a quick google and a short walk later and we were at one that had a variety of animals.
I wish I could say we walked out, but after you are there, and they have space (often there is a booking system with a long wait time), it's much harder to say no. I think too, I was focused on understanding what the guy at the front desk was rattling off in Japanese to me that I didn't properly look around at the conditions of the room. Hindsight is 20/20.
The place had small hedgehogs in tubs, two owls, a marmoset that was free range and at least fifteen otters. The otters were the worst, because they were in enclosures behind perspex that had no stimulation, no natural landscape, nothing. One of the connected "rooms" had a single bathtub that they were nearly the length of when they were swimming, so they would jump in, do a lap and back and then out again. Poor poor otters.
We tried to make the most of it, but the regret was so high. Why did we give this place money for the appalling care they showed for these animals? It really tainted our whole day after that. We had a lot of talks with the girls about it. I think they even had regret, though they were also more enamoured by the "cool animal experience" than Steve and I.
I think worse still, the girls were now focused on "next time". Probably wanting to replace the sad memory with a better one. "Next time, let's just go to a cat cafe" they would say, "because cats are usually inside house pets." The idea of there even being a "next time" was unsettling, but I could understand their desire to have some positive memories.
So I researched. We were certainly done with exotic animals and would just be sticking with cats. I serendipitously stumbled across an area of Tokyo, right near Nippori, that was actually nicknamed cat town. There were options there and most of the reviews were very positive. Places that wouldn't let kids in under 12 because they were too enthusiastic for the animals. Places that were not open every single day for hours and hours. Places that made you read the rules, sign compliance agreements and sanitise every part of you before you were allowed to enter. Things were looking much more promising for a positive experience here.
The place we went to was a rescue centre for cats that also adopted them out. It was expensive to be there for a half hour, but we got a drink each, and I was much happier about handing over the money when I saw the care and environment the cats were in.
The girls enjoyed their time, respectfully leaving cats that were sleeping alone and taking photos instead. They got to play with a couple of more frisky cats and it was overall a nice little half hour.
I still don't know what to do about the whole animal cafe experience though. It shows a disappointing lack of care for animals that is really prevalent in Japan. Even thinking about the axolotl at the girls school (who regularly eat each others limbs because they are under-stimulated/fed) is depressing. Can we just turn up with supplies for their aquariums? Do I write to the girls teachers? Would that even be noticed, or are they just another cog in the machine?
This has been the saddest thing we've experienced here. It's not all beautiful flowers, kind people and cool things.
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